Palmer’s Complete Stretch Mark Cocoa Butter Formula Kit

The journey of pregnancy takes women’s bodies through some dramatic changes, but maybe none so visible and lasting as stretch marks. Whether you cover them up or proudly display those “tiger stripes,” most women going through pregnancy will get them. And for most, they aren’t going away.

In fact, you can get them without being pregnant at all. Technically speaking, stretch marks are known as striae. They occur not in the outer layer of skin (the epidermis), but in a thicker lower layer called the dermis. The dermis is composed of collagen and other elastic fibers that can be stretched to the breaking point by any strain on the skin. That can be due to rapid weight gain, excessive steroid use, or — most commonly — pregnancy. When that breaking point is reached, blood vessels underneath the skin start to show through the gap in the dermis. That’s what causes the telltale purple or reddish hue of stretch marks in their early phase, which fades to a whiter color as time goes on.

Since that breakage occurs underneath the outer layer of skin, that brings us to the bad news. Most creams, lotions and ointments that work on the epidermis won’t do much to help the appearance of stretch marks once they’ve occurred. They can help to mitigate the damage before they happen, though. Keeping your skin moisturized is never a bad idea, and in this case, it can help your skin retain some elasticity. Products with vitamin E can help with this, as can creams with cocoa butter, hyaluronic acid or lanolin. Most proteins are great at attracting water to your skin and keeping it there. As with any moisturizer, make sure you’re choosing a cream with a thickness that’s suited to your skin type. Dry skin benefits most from thicker ointments that keep the ingredients applied for longer periods, while oily skin types can make do with a light lotion.

One type of ingredient that has been shown to reduce the appearance of stretch marks are retinoids. These are chemical compounds derived from vitamin A, and they have had some effectiveness in rebuilding the collagen fibers in the dermis. There are a few catches, though: Most concentrated retinoid creams like tretinoin (known most commonly by its brand name of Retin-A) are only available by prescription. They’re also effective only in newer stretch marks that have not yet faded to their characteristic white color.

Retinol creams are less concentrated solutions that are available over the counter, and they can be pricey. But they have shown effectiveness for some in reducing early stretch marks. In any case, you’ll want to avoid using these types of creams while pregnant, and consult your doctor about using them while breastfeeding.

If you’re going a retinol cream, take precautions. Aside from the side effects you might experience during pregnancy, retinoids can make your skin extra sensitive to the sun’s UV rays. That applies even if you’re not applying it to your face or other areas that will see a lot of sun, so be sure to supplement that retinoid use with a good SPF sunblock.