Steve Madden Troopa Black Leather Boots

Sneakers can make a statement and slip-ons are cozy, but there may be no more enduring piece of footwear than the classic leather boot. While this sturdy shoe was once only associated with bikers and workmen, today you can find leather boots fitting in at work, on the trail, on the dance floor and everywhere in between.

Fashion versatility aside, there’s a reason why people tend to stick with their favorite brand of boot. Once you find the right one, it can last for years even in the worst of conditions. That’s all due to the durability of leather in general, but a little homework will save you a lot of headaches: Not all leather is created equal.

Leather, as most buyers know, is made from cattle hide. There are many different grades of leather, and for the most part grades have to do with the way that hide is cured and what layer is used. In terms of durability, full grain leather is your best bet. Full grain uses the entire hide, which is treated but typically left with a rougher feel. If that’s the case, you won’t have to polish it, and you won’t have to worry about a lot of other things, either. This kind of leather will likely stay waterproof and be a faithful companion on many hikes, provided the stitching is good.

Of course, the rough-hewn look doesn’t work for all styles of boot. There is also top grain leather, which retains much of that durability since it retains that outermost layer of the hide. It is generally smoothed out to give a more polished look.

Corrected grain is another term that is used to denote a more buffed-out full-grain boot, but you’ll want to avoid genuine leather unless you just need an inexpensive, casual shoe. While “genuine leather” might sound like an elite classification, it’s pieced together from leftover scraps of the hide and therefore doesn’t have the same waterproof properties. It’s also a lot more likely to scuff and wear down with constant use.

Depending on where you do most of your walking, the leather won’t be the only thing you want to consider. Even the cheapest leather boots usually don’t have a leather outsole, and for good reason. Rubber or synthetic soles have a much better grip, and are better suited for hiking. You may also want to check the area where the topsole meets that outsole. Stitching around the edges is generally a good sign. It means the shoes are joined together with more than just glue, which can deteriorate over time and leave your boots less water-resistant.

The better grade of leather you have, the more you’ll want to take care of it. A good coat of conditioner goes a long way.

Make sure to clean your boot thoroughly before you condition it, then buff it with some cleaner as directed by the manufacturer. Wait a while for the boot to dry, then apply the conditioner. Your feet will thank you in the long run.

It can take time to break in a pair of leather boots, but you’ll still want to make sure you have a good fit right away.