e.l.f Instant Lift Dual-Sided Brow Pencil & Brush

The point of most makeup is to hide lines on the face, but there are a couple of key lines that women (and many men) spend a lot of money trying to enhance. Those lines, of course, shape the eyebrows. You can take your pick of products that care for those little hairs, including gels, powders and tweezers. But the easiest tool to use — and arguably the most effective — is the eyebrow pencil.

What exactly is in an eyebrow pencil? The exact shape, length and configuration may vary. The core of a regular pencil is graphite, but the core of an eyebrow pencil is usually a carefully formulated blend of pigments mixed with waxes and oils that help it bind to your brows. The cheapest pencils might be nothing more than that core wrapped in wax or wood (in which case you’ll have to sharpen it), but most eyebrow pencils are mechanical. You draw with one end, then style your brows with a brush on the back of the pencil.

In most cases, you won’t have to worry too much about the ingredient list on these pencils — if you can even find it. The chemical names might be long, but for the most part, they’re science-speak for “wax.” Pigments don’t really need preservatives, after all. Carbon black (which can irritate the eyes) and heavy metals (which can be downright toxic) are two red-flag ingredients to avoid, but you won’t find them in most modern pencils.

There are three important things you want an eyebrow pencil to do: Complement the color of your brows, put that color on precisely and stay put for as long as possible.

The first one might take a bit of trial and error. You’ll notice we said “complement” your eyebrow color, not “match.” That’s because pencils that are the same color or darker than your own brow hair will simply look like what they are: lines drawn onto your face. The trick is to make your brows look fuller, and a subtle interplay of colors will help create that texture. Go for a shade just a little lighter than your natural brow color.

Finding a pencil that goes on smoothly can also be tricky. Those with a higher concentration of oils can glide right on, but smudge too easily. Pencils with a more powdery texture might create a fuller look but require a lot more maintenance. You want something that binds to your hairs without looking waxy, and what works for one skin type may be a disaster on another face.

It’s best to start with a pencil that has a more rounded tip and work up to something sharper when you feel more comfortable. Pencils are the best for beginners because they’re easy to handle. Find the right tool and it won’t take long before your finished makeup is raising a few other eyebrows.

Everybody’s eyebrow routine is different, and that’s OK. Often, it will involve more than just an eyebrow pencil, but there’s a lot you can do with just this simple tool.

If you’re just starting out, use the pencil as a level to make sure that your natural brows are even. Many times they won’t be, and that’s fine — that’s what the pencil is for. Just mark where one brow is lower so that you touch it up later.

In general, your brows should begin just above where the edge of your nose is. (Again, you can hold the pencil against your face to find the line.) Sharpen your pencil and start there. Draw with short, slanted upward strokes, and “feather” your hairs out to the outer edge of the brow. You want to create lines that blend in with your own hairs. Blend the lines in with the brush on the other end of the pencil, and voila! You’re on your way to fuller brows.