Dr. Martens 1460 Original Leather Men’s Lace-Up Boot

From the pockets on our pants to the T-shirts that we can slip on with ease, men’s clothing is all about functionality — and there’s arguably no more functional part of the package than a solid pair of lace-up boots.

Those laces imply a certain ruggedness, and you certainly won’t want to wear your lace-up boots to any weddings. Still, there are certain styles of boot that can work surprisingly well with a range of casual and even semi-formal outfits. And if you choose the right ones, you can expect those boots to withstand any kind of weather you encounter on the way.

Whether you’re buying your boots for style or for outdoor use, materials are the primary concern. And while there are a number of synthetic boots available at different price points, good old leather is still the primary option. This is true for a variety of reasons: Not only is leather naturally water-resistant, high-quality leather can actually absorb moisture from inside the shoe and release it onto the exterior. Combine this breathability with leather’s legendary toughness and resistance to scuffing and you’ve got a material that’s made for hiking.

Of course, not all leather shoes are created equal. Shoe manufacturers apply a lot of terms to their leather, but there are a few easily identifiable grades. Full-grain and top-grain leather are at the top of the list, generally speaking. Full-grain refers to a less processed type of leather that will take on that coveted “cowhide” look as it ages and absorbs more oils. Top-grain leather is buffed and sanded to create a smoother look. It’s just as durable, but the color and appearance will stay relatively consistent with regular cleaning (which is also easier to do).

Split-grain leather, such as suede, is made from a less desirable part of the hide, but still retains some durability along with a distinctive look. Products with the grade of “genuine leather” might sound the most authentic, but they’re generally made from the bottom of the cut, with few of the natural grains that give leather it’s toughness and appeal. And bonded leather is barely leather at all. It tends to be on the cheaper end of the spectrum, as it’s actually made from a mixture of leather scraps combined with some sort of synthetic bonding agent.

Of course, it’s not necessary or even always desirable that your outer sole be made of the same leather. Some are, and they might be perfectly suited to streetwear. But rubber or other synthetic materials can be just as durable and even less slippery. (The venerable Dr. Martens boot is one example of rubber soles done well.)

Whatever sole you choose, make sure the stitching that binds it to the rest of the boot is even and tight. The upper part of your shoe might be waterproof, but that won’t mean much if water can squeeze in through the sole.

• The fit of your boots is paramount, especially if you’re planning to do any long-term hiking or working in them. Also be sure to consider the type of socks you plan to wear with the boots most often.
• If you wear insoles, factor those into how the boots will fit as well.
• Remember that feet tend to swell a bit at the end of the day from daily activities. Keep this in mind for the perfect fit and comfort too.